Friday, October 28, 2011

Next Port Salut Crisis

OK, I seem to be cursed...or blessed, depending on whether you view the recurring issues as a problem or a chance to learn.  I am determined to learn something from this.  The Port Salut redux developed the tiniest black specks four days after the b. linens wash.  There were four specks and they were almost microscopic.  My heart sank:  oh, no, not again with the black mold.  I trimmed them out using a clean knife, cleaning it between cutting each speck out.  Then, I once again turned to Debra Amrein-Boyes, author of the cheese recipe book for help.  She has been so patient and kind.  I explained what was going on.  She gave me more hints and encouraged me not to give up.  Below is my retelling of her comments/hints and my responses.
  • How long did I press the cheese and what did it weigh?  She was trying to determine if I had not pressed enough whey out and if the cheese held too much moisture.  I had actually pressed it for a bit longer than recommended because I had done it overnight.  I had also readjusted the pressure on the press every hour for the first few hours, then every two or three hours after that.  As the cheese expresses whey under pressure, it shrinks a bit in size, so to keep the right pressure on it for the duration, I reset the pressure regularly.  So I think I can rule this out, even though I don't have a scale that will weigh 3 lbs.
  • How long had I kept it in the initial brine bath, and was the solution at least 20% salt?  Again, this step was slightly longer than what the recipe called for, and I had indeed ensured the brine was just over 20% salt.  Additionally, she asked if I used iodized salt.  The iodine inhibits mold growth.  Nope...I used Kosher salt.  The salt bath also prepares the surface by altering the pH and surface chemistry making it more suitable for the b. linens.  By now, I was feeling good about my attention to detail.
  • Did I let the surface dry properly after the brining and the first wash, as well as kept the surface dry in the ageing container?  Yes, I did.  In fact, I kept the lid more ajar on the container to lower the humidity.  When I turned the cheese each day, the bottom appeared more moist/glossy, but not damp.  That's because there is little air circulation between the cheese and the container due to the rack and mat, allowing the humidity to rise locally.  So, when I turned the cheese, I let the surface dry a bit before putting it back in the refrigerator.  All good.   I was on a role!
  • Was my b. linens beyond it's expiration date and no longer active?  No.  It was fresh, and the b. linens in the bulk of the cheese had already started to turn the cheese a pastel golden yellow.  The mold was just fine.
  • The only other issue could be surface pH.  She suggested that I continue to trim any black specks that show up, and wait for the b. linens to take off.  Once that happens, the b. linens will crowd out the other species and overwhelm it.  She also suggested I use a little Geo 15 in the next b. linens wash.  Geo 15 is strain 15 of the geotrichum candidum mold.  It's a yeast-like mold and will grow fast and alter the pH of the surface, making it favorable to b. linens.  Further reading on this mold indicates that it is often used for this express purpose in cheesemaking.
I looked at the Port Salut today.  No black spots, but there were three "suspicious" spots that I cut out, not wanting to take any chances.  Because the first b. linens wash is one week after making the cheese, that gives any spurious mold spores a seven-day head-start on the b. linens.  Debra said I should not get discouraged and just keep an eye on it.  Once the b. linens takes hold, it will be fine.  So, I ordered some Geo 15, and it should be here by tomorrow, in time for the next b. linens wash on Sunday.

Keep your fingers crossed!!

Monday, October 24, 2011

More Stilton

On Saturday and Sunday, I made two more 4" round Stiltons.  This time, I used the recipe from the cheese recipe book I have, instead of the recipe that came with the Brie/Blue kit I purchased when I started all this.  The book recipe makes one large 7" tomme mold sized cheese weighing nearly 4 lbs.  I wanted to make two smaller rounds.  It was easy to scale back since I had the kit recipe, which uses 1 gallon of milk and a cup of cream, while the book uses 15 quarts (nearly 4 gallons) and one quart of cream.

The big difference between the two recipes is in the processing.  Once the curd is pressed into a cake overnight to drain off excess whey, the kit says to chop the curd cake, pack it into the mold and press with a weight overnight, turning the cheese regularly, before removing from the mold and putting it in the ageing container and refrigerator.  The book had me crumble the curd cake before placing in the mold.  This time, no weight to press it down.  But I have to continually turn the molds for 4 days before placing into the ageing container and refrigerator.

The looser packing of the curd crumbles should give me more air space inside the cheese to allow for more blue penicillium to cultivate inside the cheese.  This is what I was after.  I was not happy with the amount of blue inside the cheese on my first batch.  Although the first batch of Stilton was tastey, I wanted more blue veining.  Now I only have to wait four months to see if it worked.

Sunday, October 23, 2011

Verdict of a Wider Audience

There were about ten people at my sister's brunch today, including MJ and me.  I think most everyone sampled the cheeses I brought, a Stilton, a Brie, and the juustoa.  Based on different tastes, some like one over another, but overall, everyone liked them, especially the Stilton. Good to know that I can make cheeses that seem edible to others and not just me!!  Yes, I was seeking affirmation and an ego boost, and I got it.  But on some level, I'm never quite sure if the cheese I made (or anything I do) appeals to only me and my tastes, or if it has a wider appeal.  In the end, if I were to give away homemade cheese as gifts, I'd like to know if they are viewed well, or put in the same category as a stale fruit cake:  "Thanks for the thought, you shouldn't have.  No, really, you shouldn't have!"

I think I can scale up and be ready to share in the future.

Friday, October 21, 2011

System for Draining Whey on Juustoa While Broiling

OK.  I'd say my idea was a partial success and that I have bugs to work out.  I did get the whey to drain off as it broiled, but it was not without some issues.  The bottom of the springform pan fit too snugly to allow the whey to drain quickly.  I even loosened the ring a bit, and it didn't help.  So I slid the juustoa directly onto the air crisping pizza pan, keeping the ring around the curds.  And then, I continued to broil.  That seemed to work well.

Unfortunately, when I flipped it over, the curds had begun to ooze slightly through the holes in the pizza pan at the bottom.  I used the original springform bottom to aid me by placing it on top of the now browned juustoa.  The pizza pan did release easily from the cheese, but I had dozens of tiny "nipples" on the surface since the quarter inch that oozed through, which remained attached to the juustoa, sliding back through the holes as I removed the pan.  It made for an interesting effect once it was broiled, but really not bad.  So, no big deal.

So, what did I learn from my experiment?  It works.  But, I absolutely have to cut a circle out of the pizza pan to fit in the springform pan.  Either that, or drill smaller holes throughout the original bottom of the springform pan.  But that's more labor intensive.  With a holed bottom, I won't have to set up a contraption to suspend the pan.  I can then use the original bottom of the springform pan to aid in flipping the juustoa to broil the second side.  I also learned that I should scrape off the "nipples" before removing the holed bottom.  There really won't be much waste, since it only oozed a quarter of an inch or so through the holes.  Then I'll only have a subtle pattern, not tiny brown raised nipples all over the surface.

Wine Refrigerator

Glenn K.  (previously known as Violet), asked about my wine refrigerator in a comment she posted earlier.  I did post my own comments, but just in case they get lost in the plethora of posts lately, here's more on the refrigerator, in case others want to know.  Using a post to do this allows me to give the pros and cons on the one I have.

I bought a Whynter 21-Bottle Dual Zone on ebay.  It is electronically cooled, no refrigerant.  After some thought, I decided on this one for the following reasons:
  • I have a small dorm sized refrigerator that I tried to regulate using a timer and a temperature probe.  This method is purported to work and there are kits available.  But the temperature was too variable.
  • I settled on a dual zone because ageing and storing cheeses use two different temperatures.  Most of the long term ageing is at 40-45 degrees F.  Initial ageing is at 50-55 degrees F, and sometimes as high as 60F.
  • The Whynter was one of the smallest and least expensive of the dual zone models.  I didn't want to dive in and buy a $500 - $800, or higher priced model, without having some experience with a less expensive model so that I would know what to look for if I decided to upgrade eventually.  This one is in the $350 range.  But on ebay, I got it for $175 because it was cosmetically damaged (the back corner and back panel were slightly dented)
  • The wine racks are completely removable, so I could put the plastic ageing container in easily.
For what I intended, this one works rather well.  The main drawback was that the inside was slightly narrower than the ageing container I purchased with my cheese making kit, by about 1/2 an inch.  So I had to buy new containers that would fit, then trim the plastic racks and mats for the containers.  That was a hassle finding the perfect size.  Now the container is just barely big enough to hold 2 four inch rounds of Brie or Stilton.  I'd prefer to have a little more air circulation around the cheeses in the container, but it works.    It's also too small to have more than two ageing containers in the 50-55F zone at one time.  I use the even smaller 40-45F zone for long term ageing of cheeses once they are wrapped.  So far, that zone is big enough for what I intended.

As far as temperature control, it's perfect.  I can set the temperature for each zone and leave it be.  I'm not constantly fussing with a modification to a regular refrigerator.  As far as humidity control in the container, I had used a GE thermometer/hygrometer with remote sensor.  I put the sensor in the ageing container to monitor the humidity.  I have since given that up because there just isn't any room now in the smaller ageing container I am forced to use.  I just judge the humidity by how much moisture beads on the lid of the container, or whether the surface of the cheese is wet, slimy, or sticky.

So, the only complaint I have is the size.  I believe that someday, I may buy a larger wine refrigerator.  But it will have the features that this one has.

Busy Weekend of Cheesemaking Planned

I'm going to make another juustoa for my sister's brunch on Sunday for her friends, to go along with the Brie and the Stilton.  I also plan to make another Stilton this weekend, and this time, I will let it age for the full time before cutting into it...if I can hold out that long.  I've decided to not use the Stilton recipe that came with my kit from www.thecheesemaker.com.  Instead, I'll use the recipe in the book of cheese recipes I purchased.  Then the following weekend, I'll make another cheese from the book.  But I haven't decided which one yet.

Still looking for a source of sheep's milk to make a Caciotta.  But, let's face it, I've not tried real hard to find a source, so I get what I put into it, I guess.

Concerning making juustoa, I have been frustrated by the fact that when I broil it to get that nice brown skin, I have to fight with removing the whey as it gets expressed in the broiling process.  So a lot of times, I feel like I'm boiling it, instead of broiling it.  I do remove the excess whey during the broiling process, but it's messy.  Putting the curd into a 9" round cake pan is also a problem because the sides are barely high enough to hold the curd.  Finally, flipping it over to broil the other side is also a challenge.  I usually tear it, or some of the curds stick to the pan.

I struck upon an idea to solve this.  I bought a 9" springform pan for making cheesecakes and an air crisping pizza pan.  The springform pan has higher sides, and I can loosen the ring a bit to allow the whey to flow from the pan while it broils.  Also, with a removable bottom, it will make turning it over easier (it's a non-stick pan)  The pizza pan has a lot of small holes that are evenly spaced.  I can put the pizza pan on top of a cookie sheet with sides to keep it elevated and have a place for the whey to collect.  Putting the springform pan on top of that will complete the self-removal of the whey as it is expressed during broiling. I was hoping to find a better way to do this, but this should work.  If all goes well, I may eventually cut the pizza pan to fit directly into the springform pan.  That way , it will hold the curds, but allow the whey to drip through.  But I wanted to see if the whole idea works first before putting the effort into cutting the pizza pan to fit the springform pan.  So, I'm giving it a try this weekend and will report on whether this was a success or an epic fail.  

Port Salut Sticky Situation, Resolved?

After leaving the lid off the ageing container for two turns of the cheese, the surface is no longer sticky.  So I returned to leaving the lid on with just a small gap, to hold the moisture in, but not let it get too humid.  Keeping my fingers crossed.

The Port Salut is beginning to lose it's creamy white color and is turning faintly orange/yellow.  So the b.linens is doing it's thing.  If I can get to one week past the first washing without black/blue mold growing, I will be happy.

Thursday, October 20, 2011

Ready to Share My Cheeses

After making several batches of Brie/Camembert and a batch of Stilton, I am ready to let others try my handiwork.  MJ and I are going to a brunch at my sister's house, and we're bringing a wheel of Brie and the last half of the remaining Stilton to share and get comments.  Both are now at the point in ageing where they should be ripe enough.  We had shared one of the Brie's and half a Stilton at a dinner with friends a few weekends ago.  Unfortunately, the Brie was not quite ready and there was a small area in the middle where it was slightly "pasty".  The Stilton was sharper than the first one I cut into, but it needed more time to get even more sharp.  While we like the cheeses I've made so far, we're partial.  I'll have to report on the comments I get next week.

The Port Salut is still the bane of my existance.  The latest attempt appeared to be doing fine this first week.  But yesterday, the surface was moist and sticky when I went to turn it.  No mold yet, thank heavens.  So I left it sit in the wine refrigerator totally uncovered overnight.  This morning, the top and sides were fine, but the bottom was a bit damp.  So, I turned it and left the cover off again.  Once the surface gets back to what it should be, I'll put the cover back on slightly ajar.  The first bacteria wash is slated for Monday.  I am watching this one like a hawk.  I cannot afford to have it go bad.  If it does, I'll move on to another type of cheese to try, and leave the Port Salut until I'm more experienced.

In the mean time, I will have to make more Brie and Stilton, since I'll be out of that completely this weekend.  I seem to have those down pretty good, so it will help my self esteem to make something I know works well for me.

Saturday, October 15, 2011

The Curse of the Port Salut

I tried yesterday to make a new batch of Port Salut.  Somehow, this cheese seems to be my nemisis.  I got everything together according to the recipe.  Forty five minutes after adding the rennet, the milk had not gelled.  Waited another half an hour and still nothing.  So I ended up tossing three gallons of milk.  I am absolutely positive that I used the proper cultures and the rennet.  So much so, that this morning, after getting another three gallons of milk, I went through all my cultures and packets, labeled Ziplock bags with a Sharpie, organized them, and then took out the mesophillic culture, the b. linens, and the rennet, set them aside, and returned the remaining cultures to the freezer.  Even though I am absolutely certain, I triple checked myself this morning, just to satisfy my anal retentive nature.

I suspect that IF I did, indeed, use the right materials, I may have had residual sterilizing agents on the pot, spoons, etc.  I would not think that the tiniest amount of bleach would do this, but to be sure, I resterilized everything again and rinsed the hell out of them, more than usual. 

The only other thing it could be is the rennet.  I tried adding a bit of it to a little milk and it quickly gelled, so that wasn't it.  I am stumped.

This is no longer a desire to make a different cheese.  It has become a quest.  It will not beat me!

Friday, October 14, 2011

Starting Over

I cannot control the mold.  It keeps returning with a vengeance.  Now, I have black, white, brown, and blue mold colonies, and still not b.linens mold.  It is definitely spoilage bacteria and likely from the surface being too moist during those first days.  I thought about trimming the surface off of the cheese and starting with the first brine solution again, but the cheese is too soft to cut well, and I ended up smearing the mold onto the fresh surface.  Kind of defeats the purpose.  Before tossing it, I decided to sample it on the inside.  Pretty good, even for it still being a bit young.  I can see that this cheese would be a good melting cheese.

So, into the trash, and I'll start over again this weekend.  First, I will sterilize the ageing container very carefully, and wipe down the inside of the wine refrigerator with diluted bleach to be sure that I get rid of mold spores that may be in the refrigerator.  Don't want to reintroduce any bad bacteria.

Friday, October 7, 2011

More on Black Mold

The author of the book I use for cheese recipes, Debra Amrein-Boyes author of "200 Easy Homemade Cheese Recipes", was kind enough to respond to my question about my mold.  Initially, she said it could be errant mold spores in the air that took hold, especially since it appeared my ageing conditions were probably too moist.  However, in a follow up, I explained that my b. linens bloom had not yet shown up, so she believes it's spoilage bacteria forming, again, because the cheese is in a too-humid condition.

She instructed me to wash the entire cheese again in brine, and treat any spots of mold with a vinegar/brine wash, but only apply it to the spots.  Then let it dry a bit before returning to the ageing container.  I also need to allow more air circulation while in the ageing container, so the lid is ajar a little.  I may have to reinoculate the surface with b. linens, but that's OK.  I have plenty of it still in the freezer.  I'll just have to let it rehydrate for 12 hours before use.

Ms. Amrein-Boyes said that the surface of the cheese is fairly alkaline (high pH), and this makes it ideal for mold growth.  That's why vinegar is good at spot treating.  So if anything gets in, it takes hold.  I have to be vigilant on the black mold until the b. linens takes off.  Evidently the molds compete and once one really gets established, it tends to inhibit other molds.  That's why getting the black mold out and establishing the right mold will be important.  All I can say is wish me luck in this struggle.  But at least I learned a good lesson.

Many thanks to Debra Amrein-Boyes for taking the time to answer my email.

Black Mold on Port Salut

I don't know what happened.  I am very careful to sterilize everything when making cheese, and when handling the cheese for bacteria/brin washing, turning, etc.  But four days after the second bacteria/brine wash, I found a few (less than a dozen) very small black and brown mold growths the size of pinheads on the Port Salut.

I took a sterile knife and lifted the small spots out so as not to smear the black mold across the surface, spreading it further.  The surface of the cheese is supposed to be moist but not sticky.  Well, it was moist and verging on sticky.  So after removing the visible mold spots, I dabbed the surface with clean, dry, cheesecloth to remove the excess dampness, resterilized the container and mat, and put it back to age.  But this time, I left the lid slightly ajar.  I think it's possible it was too humid in the container, making it ideal for a few mold spores present in the air while I was working with the cheese to grow.  I hope it is not something I introduced while making it.

I should have taken a pic of the mold to post, but I was so keen on removing it as soon as I saw it.  If it comes back, I'll post a pic.  I did write the author of the recipe book I used to make the cheese to see if she had any further suggestions.  I'd hate for this to be ruined.  It is one wheel nearly 3 lbs in weight.  That's a lot of cheese to toss if I cannot control the errant mold.